The NC500: The North Coast’s Best Beaches
If the East Coast is the gentle giant of the NC500 route, then the North Coast is the untamed beauty – a spectacular, wind-sculpted gallery of white sand and turquoise water that genuinely lives up to the postcard hype. The Atlantic and the North Sea meet here, and the sheer power of the elements has carved out some of the best and most breathtaking beaches along the coastline.
For the adventurous campervan traveller, particularly in the quieter shoulder seasons of late spring (May/early June) or early autumn (September), this stretch offers solitude and jaw-dropping views. However, unlike the wide, forgiving roads of the East, the North Coast demands respect. The road structure transitions back to single-track, with passing places, and the villages are smaller, with facilities being scarcer.
But oh, the reward!
This guide focuses on the pristine beaches running along the top edge of the North Coast 500 circuit – roughly from Tongue in the east to Durness and Kinlochbervie in the west. Get ready to embrace the elements, swap the dual carriageway for passing place etiquette, and discover the raw, beautiful heart of the North Highlands!
Table of Contents
Planning Your Trip
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The NC500: Navigating the Northern Edge
Before diving into the sand, a quick reality check for the campervan crew:
- Roads: You will frequently encounter single-track roads, so respect the passing places! They are not parking bays. Be mindful of larger traffic, especially local delivery and farm vehicles and pull in early if you see traffic approaching!
- Weather: The North Coast is exposed to the elements: expect rapid weather changes, and pack for four seasons in one day. Those pristine beaches are often best appreciated with proper wind and waterproof gear!
- Facilities: Services are minimal, so stock up entirely in larger towns (like Thurso or Ullapool) before you hit the north. Utilise official campsites or designated overnight parking areas responsibly. Wild camping ethics (leave no trace, absolutely no fires, use designated toilets) are crucial here!
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The Best North Coast Beaches
1. Melvich Bay, Sutherland
Melvich is often overlooked as travellers speed between Thurso and Tongue, making it an excellent, relatively accessible initial stop on the northern leg of the North Coast 500.
- Appeal: A crescent of fine golden sand backed by low dunes and gentle hills. It feels slightly more sheltered than the beaches further west. It’s a favourite spot for local surfers when the Atlantic swell is right.
- Campervan Accessibility: Access is straightforward via a small local road off the A836. Parking is usually available near the beach access point, although spaces are limited. It’s a great spot to park up for a bracing walk and a dose of powerful sea air.
- Local Highlight: The nearby village of Melvich offers the Halladale Inn, an excellent place for a hearty meal and a local pint before heading west!
2. Coldbackie Beach, Tongue
Set slightly further into the Kyle of Tongue’s protection, Coldbackie offers views that truly define an NC500 road trip.
- Appeal: A stunning, white-sand beach known for its backdrop of the majestic Ben Loyal and Ben Hope mountains rising across the kyle (estuary). The water is often a striking, almost tropical blue – we can’t guarantee tropical temperatures, however!
- Campervan Accessibility: There’s a small parking area just off the A838. Access down to the beach itself is relatively steep but worth the effort. We would aim for an early morning or late afternoon visit to secure parking, especially if your van is large.
- Local Highlight: The village of Tongue itself is a vital stop, offering basic groceries and the historic ruin of Castle Varrich: perfect for stretching your legs after the drive.
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3. Sango Bay, Durness
Sango Sands is arguably the most famous beach on the northern section, sitting right next to Durness, the largest village on this remote stretch. It’s spectacular but can get busy.
- Appeal: A dramatic coastal landscape divided into three sections by rocky outcrops, featuring sea stacks, incredible wave action, and the famous Smoo Cave nearby. The sands are brilliant, almost blinding white on a sunny day!
- Highland Hotspot: Durness is the logistical hub of the North Coast. You’ll find a well-stocked community shop, a fuel station, and the indispensable Balnakeil campsite nearby, which offers vital services (waste disposal, showers) for campervan travellers!
- Campervan Tip: The main parking area for Sango Bay (and Smoo Cave) is generous, but as the de facto northern hub, it fills quickly. Utilise the nearby amenities in Durness to refuel and recharge – this is a must-stop, whether for an hour or a full day.
4. Balnakeil Beach, Durness
Just west of Sango Bay and Durness, Balnakeil offers a vast expanse that feels like the end of the world.
- Appeal: An enormous, sweeping stretch of pristine white sand, backed by a massive system of wild, shell-sand dunes – the largest in Britain. It’s remote, exposed, and utterly beautiful.
- Campervan Accessibility: Access is via a road leading past the Balnakeil Craft Village (a quirky collection of businesses in a former RAF camp). There is dedicated parking near the beach, which is usually sufficient due to the sheer size of the area.
- Key Message: This is a place for long, meditative walks and truly feeling the solitude of the North Atlantic. The dunes are protected, so stick to marked paths.
5. Oldshoremore Beach, Kinlochbervie
Moving into the wild northwest corner, Oldshoremore is a small beach that requires a slight detour but offers huge rewards!
- Appeal: A sheltered, beautiful cove of sparkling white sand and clear water, often lauded as one of Scotland’s finest beaches. It feels almost enclosed, protected by rocky headlands.
- Campervan Accessibility: Access is via a minor road near Kinlochbervie. There is a small, designated car park for the beach, and it is a short walk through machair (grassy dunes). Due to the tight access road, be cautious and respectful of the limited space.
- Local Highlight: The nearest settlement is Kinlochbervie, a working fishing port. It’s a great chance to peek at the local coastal industry (and potentially pick up fresh seafood!)
The NC500’s North Coast: Things To Plan For
- Fuel Stops: Limited to Thurso, Tongue, Durness, and Ullapool. Don’t risk getting stuck, and plan to hit these hubs for refuelling and supplies.
- Overnight Parking: There are limited official sites; it is essential to use designated areas or campsites.
- Amenities (Shops/Pubs): In more remote areas, these spots become highly seasonal: they are also often community-run and/or have limited hours. Make sure you check online for opening times and availability in advance.
- Weather: There are high wind and rain risks, even in summer. A waterproof/sunglasses combo is practically Highland fashion! Pack for all weather.
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The NC500: Savour the Northern Stretch!
The beaches of the North Coast are not just idyllic spots – they are geological features of immense drama. When you park your campervan here, you will be rewarded with a sense of connection to Scotland’s authentic wildness.
Embrace the chill, appreciate the quiet, and watch the waves roll in from the vast, open ocean. The North Coast section of the NC500 is a test of patience on the road, but a feast for the soul at the end of every short drive.
By travelling in the shoulder seasons, you secure better views, quieter parking, and the profound feeling that you have this stunning, dramatic corner of the world all to yourself!
So remember to respect the humble passing place, don’t forget your sunscreen (or waterproofs!) and get ready to be awed by the raw, beautiful brilliance of the NC500’s northern shores.
Happy travels!
Useful Links
- The NC500 website – for local info!
- CalMac Ferries – book well in advance!
- Met Office – check the weather!
- Traffic Scotland – for route changes and updates.
- WalkHighlands – the best hiking trails and tips.
- Scottish Outdoor Access Code (SOAC) – be informed!
- Highlands2Hammocks (That’s us!) – for our online shop, other blogs, and brand-new campervan rental service.
